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Arctic West Fall 2009 Trip
November 1, 2009
Hope is not a strategy.
The atmosphere was tense during the weather brief on Monday, 26 October. As Capt Vaughn said these words, all present knew that the Arctic weather and ice conditions had not been kind. With the final week of polar bear operations before us, we felt the stress of trying to capture as many polar bears as possible. Unfortunately, as daylight grew shorter, and ice and weather refused to cooperate, adapting our strategy became a daily chore. The feeling of urgency was prevalent and everybody realized it would be crucial to stay focused as we balanced safety against the desire to capture bears.
As soon as last weeks’ high winds finally died down, other challenges arose. Though the helicopters were no longer constrained by wind and snow, their range became an issue as POLAR SEA struggled to close the distance to the next bear position. One night, as we steamed south, POLAR SEA encountered ice so thick that we backed and rammed for over three hours to make it through only 500 yards of heavy ice. As many icebreaker sailors will tell you, power is only one factor of this art. Another important factor is the weight of the vessel. While POLAR SEA is thrust forward by its powerful turbines, the force of the ship coming down on the ice is what weakens the ice and relieves pressure in order that constant forward progression can be made. Unfortunately, after being underway for nearly two months, the fuel aboard POLAR SEA has been greatly reduced which in turn has significantly reduced her overall weight. Though running on three turbines would have increased our ramming power, it also would have reduced our already limited fuel. POLAR SEA can lose up to 6% of its weight in fuel in one day of T-T-T operations.
Meanwhile, as POLAR SEA struggled through ice, the scientists were disheartened to find that as we closed on the bear positions, the ice rapidly thinned, making capture nearly impossible.
We remained hove to in one spot for two days due to poor weather and technical problems with the bear collars. The target bears’ collars, which were put on the bears back in the spring, send out a GPS signal nearly daily around noon. Unfortunately, factors such as if the bear is swimming, can prevent the signal from transmitting. This can result in positions being a day or two old. The scientists have a tracking device that picks up the signal on the bear collars once they are airborne. However, the signal transmits to the tracker at a limited range. While the helicopters flew a variety of search patterns north of POLAR SEA, unbeknownst to all, the bear was actually 56 miles to the south. When this fact was discovered, the sun had sunk too low to attempt a capture that day.
The decision was made to remain hove to another day, in hope that a successful capture would occur in the morning. The next morning, as the precious hours ticked by, all were frustrated to hear that the bear was on thin ice and could not be herded to an ice floe where the helicopters could land. Once the helicopters had returned, POLAR SEA got underway once more, endeavoring to transit two hundred miles through ice and open water to attempt a capture of three bears, the final opportunity of this science cruise.
In between flight operations and attempted bear captures, the research divers took the opportunity to conduct their research. A few POLAR SEA crew members had the chance to set foot on the ice when extra hands were needed to ferry gear from the ship to the ice hole. They created an ice sculpture to leave record of their presence in the Arctic.
Friday morning the scientists assembled on the bridge to assess the weather and surrounding ice conditions. The situation looked bleak. We had transited north of the first bear position due to thin ice. Even so, the ice edge was a mere 2 miles south and a recent storm had broken up the ice floe. POLAR SEA rocked in a slight rhythm, as the broken ice floe rose and fell in the swells, a remnant from the storm. The weather was ideal for flying, and all were hopeful that there would be a bear on a piece of ice just large enough to land a helicopter. Two hours later both helicopters were back on deck, with good pictures but no bear capture.
In a way the cruise was ending as it had started. The poor ice that had thwarted capture attempts at the beginning, continued to follow us till the end. Though disappointed about the frustrating ice conditions this week, the scientists were far from being dismayed. For a first expedition, a lot of critical data was gathered as well as lessons learned that would not have been possible but for the opportunity to work with an ice breaker. POLAR SEA enabled the scientists to transit the frigid and ice filled Arctic waters to study polar bears in their home environment.
Saturday evening we gathered for our final morale event with the scientists, trivia night with a Halloween costume contest and scary movie. Everybody enjoyed the creative costumes that were displayed. Along with the zombies and mad scientists was a representation of a tagged polar bear (Prof. Erin Sheriden) which everybody enjoyed.
An evening highlight was the doubles contest. Which two characters looked most a like? The winners were obvious; our Executive Officer (XO), CDR Hamilton (left) and FN Brown (right). Though eerily similar in their appearance, I doubt Fireman Brown would have considered switching roles for even a day, especially after the past week. Each day required continuous adjustment to the scheduled plan of the day, regularly revised by our undaunted XO.
POLAR SEA crew and scientists were ready when the sun rose Sunday morning at the tardy hour of 1116. Anchored off Barrow, we conducted the last flight brief for the second science cruise. For once, the conditions were ideal for flying. We were given a rest from our intense strategizing and back up plans that were continuously employed over the week. The flights ran so smoothly we finished early in the afternoon. All of the scientists had been transferred to land and the second science mission came to a close.
This week we recognized two individuals for their service; SA Grant earned his Temporary Cutterman’s Pin while SK3 Daniels was commended for 4 years of sea service.
Though this science phase has come to a close, our transit through the Realm of the Polar Bear is not quite over. There is still some remaining science work left as we endeavor to locate and assist the Chinese in recovering a mooring. As we turn our clocks back and November begins, it is hard to believe how far we have traveled and how much has been learned.
Your Public Affairs Officer,
ENS Emily Holt
*The following media representatives left with the science group on Sunday. A few of their pictures are included in the AWF09 updates.
Greg Marshall: www.nationalgeographic.com/crittercam
Dan Cox: www.naturalexposures.com
Rick Morris
Sean Harper
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