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Arctic West Fall 2009 Trip

October 25, 2009

Last week a light wind would have been a welcome relief to the thick fog.

Weather brief
Weather brief

However, there appears to be no weather equilibrium in the severe Arctic. “An area of low pressure will continue to persist through the forecast period and contribute to a steep pressure gradient over our station. This will produce locally strong, gusty winds up to 45 knots. Also, expect snowy conditions as the low pressure advects relatively moist air into the region." As MSTC Wenciker, one of our Marine Science Technicians and the local weather expert spoke these distressing words, all faces present looked downcast at the news. High winds hampered all operations and brought flight quarters and the ability to go out and capture and process polar bears to a standstill.

Everyone added extra layers for the lowest temperature to date.
Everyone added extra layers for the lowest temperature to date.

This week we experienced the coldest temperatures of the trip to date. With a low of 6F and windchill of -20F on Wednesday, everybody was adding extra layers to their daily attire. Some questioned whether they had merely dreamt about putting on extra layers while standing on the flight deck at Quarters. All felt the sharp bite of the Arctic air. Despite the sun’s bright presence, the icy wind whipped through our formation assaulting any exposed skin and removing all warmth from the sun.

The ice was up to 15 ft thick.
The ice was up to 15 ft thick.

As the temperatures decreased, the long anticipated heavy ice arrived. The ice was the thickest seen to date for AWF09, in places up to 15 ft thick! There was no POLAR SEA shiprider debating whether it was really this thick. Outside the ice pressed and scraped against the hull in a constant grind. Then, there was silence. As POLAR SEA ground to a halt Tuesday night, only the heaviest sleepers remained oblivious. Backing and ramming, a skill known to all ice pilots, began in earnest that night. With the rudder amidships (or centered) so as to provide the most protection from wayward ice chunks in the water, the bridge team slowly came back on the throttles. When clear of the ice, the thrust was reversed and POLAR SEA surged forward, the full weight of the heavy icebreaker crushing the ice pack.

Crane ops
Crane ops

Slowly, POLAR SEA backed and rammed until the ice could be seen cracking off into the distance on either side of the bow, creating a relief in pressure and allowing POLAR SEA to move forward.
Ice does not always act as expected. We saw this first hand when stopped or, “hove to,” in 6 foot ice as we prepared for dive operations. As the divers got ready to go out on the ice, a crack suddenly appeared off the port side, where we intended to conduct dive operations. The crack quickly grew to a foot in width. The strength of the winds had created swells under the ice. As the ice rose and fell ever so slightly, the weight of POLAR SEA broke the balance and the cracks began. As a result, dive operations were canceled.

The helicopter recovers personnel from the ice.
The helicopter recovers personnel from the ice.

Earlier in the week we experienced how quickly the conditions can change and the affect on operations. On Sunday, when the helicopters were out capturing a bear and the divers were on the ice diving, the wind caused POLAR SEA to shift in the ice. The cranes, our usual means for bringing the divers to the ice, were no longer able to reach the divers’ ice floe. We quickly decided to use the helicopters to safely recover all personnel from the ice.

Throughout the week, the wind continued to howl outside, determined to breach any invisible opening in the ship. The lucky crew members with a porthole in their staterooms knew it was cold when they woke up to find their window to the outside world covered in frost, on the inside! Outside the snow blew violently across the landscape creating drifts and mounds on the ice.

SK3 Hankins gives MK3 Briggs a trim.
SK3 Hankins gives MK3 Briggs a trim.

Despite the lack of operations, scientists and crew remained busy inside. George Durner, of U.S. Geological Survey, gave a presentation on climate change in the Arctic, its relationship to polar bears, and predictions of the Arctic over the next 50 years. As crew and scientists alike warmed their hands around warm mugs of hot cocoa, tea, or coffee, some found it hard to believe that future summers could experience an ice free Arctic.

Despite the brutal conditions, POLAR SEA crew and scientist adapted to the challenges and shipboard life continued as normal. Though some may have desired to grow a thicker thatch of hair in the bitter weather, our barber, SK3 Hankins, kept his clippers busy and the crew well groomed. On Friday night we had another morale activity, with a variety of talented performances by different members of the crew. Even the scientists participated, with a wind dance.

The polar bear sniffs curiously along the hull.
The polar bear sniffs curiously along the hull.

If we couldn’t fly to the polar bears, the polar bears would come to us. A highlight of the week was on Friday when the announcement came across the ship system, “A polar bear has been sighted 100 yds off the port beam and closing.” The polar bear kept approaching until it was sniffing curiously along the hull, nearly close enough to reach out and touch. Ignoring the brutal winds, POLAR SEA crew and scientists crowded the flight deck and fantail, awestruck at the proximity of the animal.

Cameras snapped furiously to capture this moment.
Cameras snapped furiously to capture this moment.

Cameras snapped furiously, and quickly, as each member attempted to capture this moment for future memories. We stomped our feet and shoved our hands in our pockets in between pictures, mesmerized by the polar bear until the cold forced us back inside.

We were awestruck at the proximity of the animal.
We were awestruck at the proximity of the animal.

We continue to crush our way through the ice and wait for the winds to die down. It has been another adventure filled week in the Realm of the Polar Bear, despite the high winds and operational constraints. Crew and scientists continue to make achievements in their work and research. This week we recognized two individuals for their service; SN Walker earned her Temporary Cutterman’s Pin while SN Woody earned his 1 Year Sea Service Award. In a place so barren and removed from the fast paced world, each day tends to blend into the next. It is hard to believe we are over halfway through our journey. Each week we look forward to new adventures and returning to our families upon completion of this voyage in the Realm of the Polar Bear.

Your Public Affairs Officer,
ENS Emily Holt

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Last Modified 1/26/2012