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BEST 2010 Trip

March 21, 2010

Sunrise to Sunset to Sunrise

Sunrise in the Bering Sea
Sunrise in the Bering Sea

In the distance there is a subtle glow on the horizon nearly an hour before sunrise. It is a thin band of sky that is simply lighter than the rest. Eventually the band expands and gains color; a pale pink, red, and greenish blue that blend together. At last, the top of the sun, a bright ball of gold can be seen in the east, slowly rising above the sharp ice contours that border the horizon. As daylight comes to the Bering Sea, the crew and scientists of POLAR SEA are not gradually stirring from the warmth of their racks. While some slept soundly throughout the night, many were busy on deck, carrying out the rigorous schedule as all endeavored to support the BEST field research.

Twenty-four hour science operations are being conducted to maximize our limited time in the Arctic. The 52 million dollar, five year study of the eastern Bering Sea ecosystem demands such efficiency as it is constrained both by time and the environment. Maximum ice thickness and extent occurs the first week of March before the strength and coverage subsides as spring begins. Once areas of open water form pockets within the ice floes, there is a slow but steady increase in ice melt.

Deploying a VanVeen Grab
Deploying a VanVeen Grab

The study involves evolutions that require a variety of components and personnel. The “cast deck” evolutions are centered on a series of specific pieces of science gear that is put over the port side or stern to collect samples. In ice free waters, the process is far less complicated. In a large ice floe in the Bering Sea, POLAR SEA must first clear an area off the port side large enough to conduct operations and then maintain position to ensure that adjacent ice, or floating pieces of ice do not come into contact with gear streamed over the side.

The above ice trail was broken by POLAR SEA. The broken pieces must be cleared from the “cast deck” area before commencing science operations.
This ice trail was broken by POLAR SEA. The broken pieces must be cleared from the “cast deck” area before commencing science operations.

Dependent upon the thickness and type of ice, it can take anywhere from 20 minutes to a couple of hours to clear an area suitable for operations. With the help of boat hooks, crew members are sometimes able to carefully lean over and push some of the “smaller” ice chunks out of the way. Most often, however, the boat hooks are like mere toothpicks against a formable opponent and the ship must continue to maneuver until the area is clear. Regardless of the technique, patience is consistently the most essential element.

The “cast deck” with the VanVeen Grab in the water
The “cast deck” with the VanVeen Grab in the water

Although busy with science operations, as stated in earlier updates, holidays are not forgotten underway. Wednesday morning reveille, or the wake up over the ship system, was given an Irish flair in honor of St. Patrick’s Day. The “lads and lassies” aboard POLAR SEA had the option of wearing green t-shirts for the day. In the evening we all enjoyed a delicious meal of corn beef and cabbage that had been cooked with some direction and advice from one of our chiefs with Irish heritage.

A scientist empties contents of the VanVeen Grab. The VanVeen Grab takes a scoop of the Bering Sea floor which includes small plants and animals such as clams.
A scientist empties contents of the VanVeen Grab. The VanVeen Grab takes a scoop of the Bering Sea floor which includes small plants and animals such as clams.

Despite being the only vessel in the area, we were not without company this week as there was more than one interaction with curious wildlife. On Tuesday morning, as the ship was being positioned for science operations, a funny looking grayish, black blob began to move across the ice. A pair of binoculars revealed this blob to be a Bearded Seal. As scientists and crew ascended to the bridge for the day’s flight brief, soon the windows were crowded with onlookers who no longer needed binoculars due to the close proximity of the seal.

The Bearded Seal
The Bearded Seal
It is hard to describe a seal’s movement across the ice; it is somewhere between a flop and a hop as it wiggles itself forward, first the head stretches out and then the flippers follow. As the seal wriggled its way toward us, every few moments it would stop. The seal would flop over on its side and then lay there for a few minutes. It seemed to be deciding whether the intense moving effort was worth investigating the colossal red object (POLAR SEA) that blocked the horizon.

Science operations are conducted off the fantail. In the picture above, science gear is deployed.
Science operations are conducted off the fantail. In the picture above, science gear is deployed.

On Thursday, we had our second notable wildlife interaction during a day spent drifting with an ice floe.

As the scientists collected samples off the fantail throughout the day, midway through someone noticed a visitor. A brown head, whiskers…and then two long tusks slowly emerged at the surface. A few minutes later it disappeared. Then it reappeared. For the rest of the afternoon, the walrus disappeared and reappeared, playing hide and seek with anyone who hoped to capture it on film as it monitored the progress of POLAR SEA and its scientists. Perhaps, as suggested by Captain Vaughn, the prop wash off the stern created a jet-like, Jacuzzi environment, for our walrus friend—of course without the warmth.

“Wally” the Walrus (as named by the Assistant Marine Science Officer, ENS Jen Hom)
“Wally” the Walrus (as named by the Assistant Marine Science Officer, ENS Jen Hom)

As the week concludes, we are a third of the way through BEST 2010 science operations. The crew and scientists have spent many productive hours in the cold, working tirelessly to complete the mission objectives. We enjoyed warmer weather, as the thermometer registered temperatures as high as 26 F! Though to most that may seem like a cold front, after experiencing temperatures below zero for the last few weeks, the difference was notable and made outside operations more bearable. We hope for continued good weather and look forward to the next days’ adventures as we continue to support BEST 2010.

Your Public Affairs Officer,
LTJG Emily Holt

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Last Modified 1/26/2012